Ingredients I use and why

Essential oils, Extract & Oils

I use a variety of oils and extracts when making my products and they all have a specific purpose with a desired outcome. The list is long, but worth a read, if curious.


Essential Oils - for aromatherapy

Your sense of smell is closely tied to your memories and emotions, perhaps more so than any of your other senses. This is because when you smell something, it passes through your olfactory bulb, which runs from your nose along the bottom of your brain, connecting it to your hippocampus and amygdala. These areas of the brain are responsible for your memories and feelings, which is why scent can be so powerful.

  1. Lavender: inflammatory conditions, skin infection, wounds, cuts, grazes, rashes, itching, stress-related eczema, nervous psoriasis, sunburn, burns, muscular spasm, muscular contraction, abdominal cramp, headache, migraine, insomnia, nervousness and related conditions, acne, pimples, insect bites, stress, tension, anxiety, tension, panic, insect deterrent
  2. Tea Tree: Bacterial skin infection, parasitic skin infection respiratory tract infection, sinusitis, rhinitis, laryngitis, bronchitis, wounds, ulceration, pimples, acne, abscesses, head and body lice, fungal infection, athlete's foot, warts, verrucas
  3. Eucalyptus: Respiratory infection, bronchitis, infectious disease, fever, catarrh, sinusitis, muscular aches and pains, rheumatism, arthritis, urinary infection, cystitis, parasitic infection
  4. Peppermint: Alertness, antioxidant, asthma, chronic fatigue, cold sores, congestion, constipation, cooling, cramps, charley horses, fainting, halitosis, headaches, heatstroke, hot flashes, indigestion, ,itching, jet lag, migraines, motion sickness, muscle aches, muscle fatigue, nausea, sinusitis, tennis elbow, varicose veins, vomiting 
  5. Lemon: Acne, anemia, brittle nails, boils, chilblains, corns, cuts, greasy skin, herpes, insect bites, mouth ulcers, varicose veins, warts, arthritis, cellulitis, high blood pressure, nosebleeds, poor circulation, rheumatism, asthma, throat infections, bronchitis, catarrh, dyspepsia, colds, flu, fever and infections
  6. Frankincense: Coughs, colds, bronchitis, nervous asthma, skin infection, scars, wounds, urinary tract infections, mental fatigue, depression, nervousness, stress, tension
  7. Rose: often used for emotional support, as well as to nourish and hydrate the skin.
  8. Chamomile: Acne, allergies, boils, burns, cuts, chilblains, dermatitis, earache, eczema, hair care, inflammations, insect bites, rashes, sensitive skin, teething pain, toothache, wounds, arthritis, inflamed joints, muscular pain, neuralgia, rheumatism, sprains, dyspepsia, colic, indigestion, nausea, dysmenorrhagia, headache, insomnia, nervous tension, migraine and stress-related complaints.
  9. Rosemary: Acne, dandruff, dermatitis, eczema, greasy hair, insect repellent, promotes hair growth, regulates seborrhea, scabies, stimulates scalp, lice, varicose veins, fluid retention, gout, muscular pain, palpitations, poor circulation, rheumatism, asthma, bronchitis, whooping cough, colitis, dyspepsia, flatulence, jaundice, dysmenorrhoea, colds, flu, debility, headaches, hypotension, neuralgia, mental fatigue, nervous exhaustion and stress-related disorders
  10. Ylang Ylang: : Hypertension, circulatory conditions, muscular cramp, menstrual cramp, intestinal spasm, insomnia, nervous tension, stress, nervousness, physical exhaustion, chronic fatigue, depression
  11. Clove: Pain relief, bacterial infection, fungal infection, viral skin infection, warts, verrucas, toothache, gum disease, muscle pain, rheumatism, flu, bronchitis, tired limbs, nausea, flatulence, stomach cramp, abdominal spasm, parasitic infection, scabies, ringworm
  12. Sandalwood: Coughs, sore throats, urinary infection, cystits, vaginal infections, heavy legs, scarring, insomnia, anxiety, nervous tension, nervous exhaustion, depression
  13. Citronella: Muscular aches and pains, infectious skin conditions, fevers, heat rash, excessive perspiration, fungal infections, fungal foot infections, fatigue, insect bites; insect deterrent
  14. Cornmint: treats colds, headaches, and sore throats.
  15. Clary sage: Menstrual problems, menstrual cramp, endometriosis, premenstrual syndrome, menopausal problems, hot flashes, muscular aches and pains, muscular fatigue, muscular spasm, excessive perspiration, headaches, loss of concentration, memory, insomnia, nervousness, depression, anxiety stress, psychological stress

  16. Sweet orange: Reduce anxiety

  17. Black Pepper: General aches and pains, stomach cramp, digestive problems, rheumatism, circulatory conditions,  cold limbs, chills, exhaustion, convalescence; general nerve tonic

  18. Camphor: Muscular aches and pains, rheumatism, muscular injury, chesty cough, bronchitis, colds, sinus problems, acne, rashes, parasitic skin infections, contusions, bruises; stimulating, insect repellent

  19. Carrot Seed: Detoxifying, arthritis, rheumatism, indigestion, water retention, genitourinary infection, urinary tract infection, eczema, ulcers, psoriasis, acne, pimples

  20. Cedarwood: Chest infection, catarrh, congestion, acne, scalp disorders, cellulite, anxiety, stress, tension, physical exhaustion; detoxifying

  21. Cinnamon: Airborne bacteria, bacterial infections, bites/stings, breathing, diabetes, diverticulitis, fungal infections, general tonic, stimulates immune system, infection, low libido, mold, pancreas support, physical fatigue, pneumonia, typhoid, vaginal infection, vaginitis, viral infections, warming to body

  22. Coffee: Low mood, nausea, gas, cellulite.

  23. Fennel: Digestive disorders, colic, dyspepsia, gastrointestinal spasm, flatulence, nausea, constipation, irritable bowel syndrome, abdominal spasm, menstrual problems, menstrual cramp, premenstrual syndrome, fertility, endometriosis, menopausal symptoms, detoxifying, cellulite, fluid retention, heavy legs, bronchitis, respiratory conditions, parasitic infection

  24. Geranium: Female reproductive disorders, menstrual cramp, infertility, endometriosis, premenstrual syndrome, menopausal symptoms, circulatory disorders, Raynaud's disease, varicose veins, hemorrhoids, neuralgia, nervous skin disorders, depression, fatigue, emotional crisis, stress
  25. Grapefruit: Acne, congested and oily skin, promotes hair growth, tones the skin and tissues, cellulitis, exercise preparation, muscle fatigue, obesity, stiffness, water retention, chills, colds, flu, depression, headaches, nervous exhaustion, performance stress

  26. Hemp: Skin conditions, over-exertion, aging, stress, anxiety, pain, sleep, loss of appetite.

  27. Jasmine: Infertility, menstrual cramp, abdominal spasm, nervous tension, nervousness, stress-related conditions, lethargy, apathy, fatigue, insecurity, low self-esteem, anxiety, depression

  28. Juniper: Fluid retention, cystitis, urinary tract infection, abdominal bloating, menstrual cramp, heavy legs, detoxifying, cellulite, obesity, gout, rheumatism, arthritis, acne, ulceration, eczema, mental exhaustion, chronic fatigue, anxiety, tension

  29. Lemongrass: Muscular aches and pains, gastrointestinal disorders, indigestion, colitis, diuretic, detoxifying, cellulite, fever, nonspecific infection, physical and mental exhaustion, acne, pimples, insect bites, insect repellent

  30. Neroli (Orange Blossom): Scars, stretch marks, thread veins, mature and sensitive skin, tones the complexion, wrinkles, poor circulation, diarrhea, colic, flatulence, spasm, nervous dyspepsia, anxiety, depression, nervous tension, stress-related conditions

  31. Orange: Dull and oily complexions, mouth ulcers, water retention, child, constipation, dyspepsia, spasm, colds, nervous tension, stress-related conditions

  32. Sage: Acne, cuts, dandruff, dermatitis, eczema, excessive sweating, hair loss, gingivitis, gum infections, skin sores, arthritis, fluid retention, muscular aches and pains, poor circulation, rheumatism, asthma, coughs, laryngitis, jaundice, liver congestion, amenorrhea, dysmenorrhea, colds, fever, flu, headaches, nervous exhaustion, stress-related conditions
  33. Vanilla: Stress-induced conditions, nervous anxiety, nervousness, insomnia and restlessness, unexplained painful limbs, nervous stomach, nausea, inability to relax
  34. Nettle:  Nettle is full of antioxidants and nutrients such as, Vitamins A, C, K, E and several B vitamins which help to promote a radiant, supple and beautiful complexion. The powerful antioxidants & natural anti-inflammatory properties may help to soothe & protect dry irritated skin.

Extracts

1. Borage: Moisturizing, anti-inflammatory properties, which can soothe and calm dry or irritated skin.Anti-aging benefits, such as reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles while keeping skin firm and elastic. Acne-fighting, Calming

2.Tamanu: anti-inflammation, antioxidant, and antimicrobial, and improve skin barrier function

3. Horsetail Grass: heal rashes, burns and wounds thanks to its antibacterial and antimicrobial properties. Another anti-ageing benefit is the silica in horsetail which contains collagen. Collagen is an important part of the skin, keeping it taut and wrinkle free

4. Orchid Extract: Orchids have long been used for reparative and protective properties, moisturizing, fighting free radicals, and reducing the appearance of fine lines. High-end skincare products use wonderful botanicals like orchids because of their superior profile, rich in minerals and moisturizing compounds.

5. Sea Buckthorn Extract: Sea buckthorn is an antioxidant, anti-aging, acne, anti-inflammatory, emollient, and cell healing and regeneration agent.

6. Ivy Extract:  Ivy has long been known to be an astringent, stimulant, anti-cellulitis, anti-blotchiness, and a wonderful skin healer.

7. Comfrey Leaves Extract: The extract is emollient, healing, anti-inflammatory, astringent, promotes tissue repair and is moisturizing to the skin.

8. Chamomile Extract: Chamomile is relaxing, cleansing, moisturizing, soothing, calming, cooling, anti-inflammatory

9. Pomegranate Extract: mproves Skin Elasticity - Our oil is high in omega-5 fatty acids (punicic acid) and antioxidants that can improve skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

10. Green Tea Extract: will reduce irritation, redness and swelling. This serums powerful antioxidant Green Tea, will reduce the UV damage in your skin and helps by protecting your skin from future damage cause by free radicals. rich in antioxidants and minerals which help your skin appearance. This serum will give you a boost of collagen to reduce fine lines

11. Collagen extract: smooths the look of skin's rough texture, plumps overall skin tone, & replenishes essential moisture to visibly restore volume to areas prone to sagging, dark spots, & wrinkles. Nourish, hydrate, & plump your skin for a healthier, fuller, & younger appearance while also improving your skin’s elasticity all at once.

Fixed Oils

Borage Seed Oil: This oil is rich in GLA and is reported to help psoriasis and eczema.

Evening Primrose Oil: wonderful for treating dry or irritated skin

Neem Oil: This oil contains constituents that are beneficial to skin care. Scientific research has confirmed that neem seed oil is non-toxic to mammals and may be a very effective organic antiseptic, antifungal, antibacterial, antiviral agent. The neem seed oil has been used for centuries in India as a medicine to aid in the healing of topical skin disorders such as rash, psoriasis, eczema, burns, and acne.

Red Raspberry Seed Oil: Raspberry oil is high in natural tocopherols and essential fatty acids, with 30% Omega 3, 54% Omega 6, and 14% Omega 9 profile. A valuable oil for natural cosmetics! Raspberry oil has been noted to be helpful in SPF applications due to absorbance of both UV-A and UV-B.

Mink oil: works hard against fine lines, wrinkles, and scars. Fights naturally occurring ‘free radicals’ that cause our skin to age. Enjoy extra strength anti-wrinkle effects!. deal for those suffering from conditions like eczema or psoriasis as well as infants, and seniors

Hyaluronic acid: offers extra hydration & barrier protection to the skin, leading to healthier cells & a more vibrant complexion. Facial serum reduces age spots & pigmentation issues.

Oils in Soaps

Coconut
Oil

Hard

Abundant
lather, large fluffy bubbles, high cleansing, hard bar, white color

15-50%

High amounts of coconut oil can be drying, however you can always use a higher superfat to counteract the drying effect. The more un-saponified oils in your soap the more moisturizing it is.
Experiment with a 100% coconut oil soap with a 20% superfat. 

Palm Oil

Hard

Mild
stabilizing lather, hard, long lasting bar

25-50%

Palm oil is great for those that don’t want to use animal fats such as lard or
tallow. I personally do not use palm oil because of the environmental effects of producing it. 

Olive
Oil

Soft/Hard

Low
slippery lather, almost no bubbles, low cleansing

25-80%

The low cleansing properties of olive oil make it very mild and nourishing. Soap for sensitive skin, elder skin or baby skin should include high amounts of olive (60%). Castile soap is made with 100% olive oil.  I classify this
as a soft/hard oil because it makes a very soft bar of soap initially upon unmolding but cures into a rock hard
bar.  Soaps high (50%+) in olive oil need longer to cure and unmold.

Lard

Hard

Mild
stabilizing creamy lather, hard, white bar

25-50%

100% lard soap with no superfat makes great laundry
soap.

Tallow
(beef)

Hard

Mild
stabilizing creamy lather, hard, white bar

25-50%

100% tallow soap with no superfat makes great laundry soap.

Sunflower oil

Soft

Medium
lather, mild cleansing

5-12%

Sunflower oil is a wonderful sub for some of the olive oil in a recipe.

Grapeseed

oil

Soft

Medium
lather, mild cleansing

5-12%

Grapeseed is a wonderful sub for some of the olive oil in a recipe.

Castor oil

Hard

Suspends
the lather created by coconut oil

5-10%

Some soap makers like to use 15-20% castor oil in their shampoo bars or shaving
bars.

 

Clays/exfoliants

Mica; Used for coloring

Name of Clay

Function

Benefits

Kaolin Clay

Also known as China clay / White Clay.

Helps remove black heads & white heads from facial skin

Best suited for Oily as well as Dry Skin.

Add to Face Mask, Handmade Soap, Soap free Cleansing Powder, Scrubs & Body Wraps.

Calamine Powder

A composition of Zinc Oxide & Ferric Oxide.

Calms & naturally tones the skin.

Best suited for Sensitive, acne prone skin. Natural home remedy for skin irritants like redness, rashes, itchiness.

Add to Face Mask, Handmade Soap & Body Lotion.

Fuller’s Earth / Multiani Mitti

Improves the texture of skin by removing dark spots, acne & blemishes. Tightens skin, reduces pore size.

Offers a radiant glow.

Suitable for all skin types.

Best used in Face Packs, Handmade Soap, Hair Masks, Shampoo, Body Wraps & Scrubs.

Rhassoul Clay

Absorbs excess oils & impurities & naturally moisturizes the skin.

Offers a pastel pink hue to your handmade soap & cosmetics.

Suitable for combination to dry skin type.

Useful in Designer Soaps, Face Masks & Shampoos.

Bentonite Clay

Rejuvenates skin & gives it an even tone.

Reduces skin inflammation like rashes.

Suitable for all skin types.

Useful in Baby Talcum powder, Handmade Soap, Hair & Face masks.

Rose Clay

It is a type of Kaolin Clay that comes from a naturally occurring Iron Oxide

It is a gentle exfoliator and polisher which cleanses without stripping of the body’s oil balance.

Best suited for Dry Skin

Use in Face Masks, Handmade Soaps, Body Scrubs & Soap Free Cleansing Powder.

Chocolate Clay

It is a blend of chocho powder and Rhassaul clay.

It organically detoxifies the skin and tightens pores.

Useful for all skin types.

Make DIY Face masks, Handmade Soaps, Scrubs, Balms & Bath Butter 

Exfoliants

  • Calendula: Chopped or ground flower petals retain their yellow color.
  • Chamomile Flowers: You can also make tea from it and use it in place of water.
  • Coffee Grounds:Coffee can tend to bleed like mint, so some people brew it first.
  • Eucalyptus Leaves: Be sure to grind—eucalyptus can be a bit scratchy if in larger pieces.
  • Lavender Buds: Grind them quite a bit or they tend to look like mouse droppings—they turn brown in cold process soap.
  • Loofah: You can use either whole, sliced, or ground—this ingredient is especially popular in melt-n-pour soaps.
  • Oatmeal: Different amounts of grinding give different effects—coarse is very scrubby, whereas finely ground is very mild.
  • Peppermint and Spearmint: Be careful of "botanical bleed" and other challenges with mints.
  • Poppy Seeds: Lemon poppy seed soap is gentle and energizing.
  • Pumice: A popular choice for those with extra rough hands.